In this two-part travel feature, writer and photographer Mohammad Reza Amirinia journeys into the heart of Uganda’s misty highlands. From the shimmering shores of Lake Chahafi to the bamboo forests of Mgahinga, he immerses himself in the wild beauty of the southwest, tracking golden monkeys and engaging with local communities. This is not just a tale of adventure, it’s a soulful exploration of nature, culture, and the landscapes that define the “Pearl of Africa.”
Arrival in Entebbe
I landed in Entebbe after a 12-hour flight from London. Entebbe, adjacent to Lake Victoria, benefits from a tropical rainforest climate with steady, pleasant temperatures throughout the year. It was enjoyable to stay and experience both Entebbe and Kampala—the relaxed lakeside charm of Entebbe and the vibrant energy of Kampala offered a nice introduction to Uganda. I stayed at Entebbe Forest Lodge, which provided a peaceful base to explore the local attractions. But like many other adventurous tourists, I was eager to travel southwest to visit Uganda’s national parks in search of mountain gorillas and golden monkeys.
Journey to Lake Chahafi
After spending a few days in Entebbe, I headed south to stay at Lake Chahafi Resort, located on the shore of Lake Chahafi near the town of Kisoro. It was a long journey, 500 km from Entebbe, to reach this destination in the southwestern part of Uganda. Travelling along the A109 highway through a mountainous region with stunning landscapes was scenic and breathtaking. Along the way, one can explore numerous attractions and viewpoints of rolling hills and farmlands, making the journey more enjoyable.
The Kigezi Highlands, Lake Bunyonyi and Virunga Volcano Vistas are highlights that should not be missed. About 72 kilometres southwest of Kampala, a stop at the Equator in Kayabwe, Mpigi District, offers a memorable photo opportunity where you can stand in both hemispheres at once. It’s a quick yet iconic experience for anyone travelling through Uganda. There are many attractions to explore and lodges to stay along the way to make the long journey shorter and more comfortable. I stayed three nights at Mihingo Lodge, set on a rocky outcrop adjacent to Lake Mburo National Park, before heading to the Lake Chahafi Resort. The lodge offers a range of activities including bush walks, horse riding, biking, and game drives, all providing close encounters with the park’s abundant wildlife in a peaceful, and secluded setting.
Arrival at Lake Chahafi Resort
The gravel road from the highway at the junction of Kanaba to the Lake Chahafi Resort was a bit bumpy due to uneven surfaces and loose stones. Still, it was much better than some rural roads to other lodges I have experienced in Uganda. The nine-kilometre distance to the resort took us twenty minutes, passing through traditional villages with houses made of mud, watching farmers and schoolchildren.
I arrived late at night and was welcomed with a soft drink. It was a quick check-in to my spacious tented room, one of the eight boutique options. The room was situated at the far end of the resort, overlooking Lake Chahafi with a view of the Virunga mountains. The resort also has five newly built cottages suitable for families and small groups with a direct mountain view and neighbouring farmland. At the resort’s restaurant, you can select a variety of delicious local and international cuisines from an à la carte menu.
Golden Monkey Tracking Experience
I had to wake up at six o’clock in the morning to go on a golden monkey tracking trip. We travelled an hour through local villages to reach Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. We arrived on time at the Ntebbeko Visitor Centre for a briefing at 8 a.m. We watched a cultural performance by the Batwa people before going to the briefing. The Batwa locals are indigenous hunter people who were the original inhabitants of the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. They were known as the keepers of the forest.
The guide explained the wildlife in the National Park, the trail, and all the precautions en route, including encountering animals. The resort had already arranged a $100 permit, but I had to hire a porter for $20. I was given a wooden hiking stick. At the end of my hike, I realised how helpful it was to have the support of a porter. We began our hikes from the visitor centre through the bamboo forest. The path was steep, and we had to climb higher and higher through a lush woodland. The people who wish to reach the summit would normally take the Sabyinyo Gorge trail. To find golden monkeys, there is no set trail as they move fast from one location to another. An advance team of rangers chase them closely in the woods before radioing our guides to lead the group. Finding golden monkeys is more difficult than finding gorillas, which can be more easily chased based on their remains and nests.
We embarked on an epic journey through pristine nature in the woods. It was a serene encounter deep within the forest. We could hear the sounds of birds, the buzzing of insects, and occasionally the distant scurrying of mammals. The crunching of leaves and broken twigs beneath our feet broke the silence, echoing throughout the quiet forest. You can hardly see other mammals in the forest. There are over 39 types of mammals in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, including buffalo, elephants, bushbucks and many species of birds. But the main focus is on golden monkeys and gorillas.
A Challenging Yet Rewarding Hike
I felt a fresh breeze on my face, watching the whisper of leaves with the trees dancing to the wind on our path. We stopped occasionally to refresh our breath and hear the guide. The guide told us that we might need to walk up to 2600 metres above sea level to find monkeys. The Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is home to three Virunga volcanoes: Mount Muhavura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabinyo. Mount Muhavura has the highest elevation at 4127 metres. It was a challenge to hike for a few hours, not knowing how long it would take to get to the monkeys’ gathering point.
Along our path, on a flat surface, we discovered a hut where we rested for a few minutes. There were no signs of monkeys, so we had to continue. Having a porter was incredibly helpful; he held my hand and assisted me at the higher elevations. The varied terrain, with its cumulative elevations in the wild forest, makes the hiking experience along the trail truly special.
Spotting the Golden Monkeys
We traversed the gorge, ascending through the narrow valley, and reached a vantage point at an elevation of 2,300 metres, from which we could view the Virunga volcano mountain range. From our trail at Mount Gahinga, we glimpsed the peaks of the surrounding mountain range. It was Mount Sabinyo at a distance. The guide told us we were not far from monkeys.
Interactions with fellow hikers and conversations with the rangers made the journey more enjoyable. It was a challenging hike, taking us three hours and ultimately concluding when the guide blew the whistle to indicate the presence of a group of monkeys in the trees.
I forgot all the pains in my feet and my tiredness. I gazed at the high bamboo trees where the golden monkeys were jumping up and down. We had only one hour to spend with them. It was difficult to capture them with my camera, with a wide-angle lens, as they were high up. I used my camera with a 70–200 mm lens to capture them. I was so pleased to see gorgeous monkeys coloured in golden fur mixed with white, black and orange shades. The guide told us that the females have lighter colours. They are very smart animals, moving fast from one tree to another. During our tour, they didn’t come down on the ground. Nelson, the owner of the Lake Chahafi Resort, showed me a video of his visit a few days ago, where the monkeys were playing on the ground. Our one-hour allowance was over so quickly, and we had to descend. It was a tough experience, and my muscles were aching. Despite the pain, I managed the return successfully. It took us only one hour to reach the visitor centre. I got a big lesson from this hike: more walking daily to increase my leg strength.
The next morning, I continued my journey with one of the most anticipated experiences of the trip, trekking through the forests of Mgahinga to track mountain gorillas. It was an unforgettable day, and I’ll be sharing more about that adventure in the next part.
Plan Your Trip
Learn more about Uganda: https://exploreuganda.com
Fly indirectly from London Heathrow to Entebbe with Brussels Airlines. You can also fly directly with Uganda Airlines from Gatwick Airport (four flights per week starting 18 May 2025). Book your train ticket with Southern Railway to reach Gatwick Airport from London Bridge or Victoria Station via Gatwick Express. Customers won’t be charged a booking fee.
Book your stay at the Lake Chahafi Resort: https://lakechahafiresort.com, Mihingo Lodge: https://mihingolodge.com and https://ebbforestlodge.com.
Plan your itinerary with Discover Virunga: https://www.discovervirunga.com – a specialist in immersive, eco-conscious travel experiences in Uganda.
For images of Uganda: www.amirinia.com/uganda
